Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Days 365-366 - The EPIC journey home

For those of you still reading this blog, it may seem like I’ve been stuck in limbo land between Croatia and Australia for months now. Though I’ve been home for a while, the journey to get here certainly felt like it took months. Below is a belated description of my Lassie-like trip home.

Day 365 (Sat) – Fly from Dubrovnik to Dusseldorf, train to Maastricht, train to Amsterdam, hotel stay in Amsterdam overnight.

The LOOOOONG trip home – about 8 hours travel time between Dubrovnik and Amsterdam, plus a whole lot of rushing contrasted with plenty of waiting around. We left the Sail Croatia boat in Dubrovnik at 7am (mandatory check out time), arriving at Dubrovnik airport with FAR too much time to wait around in one of the smallest European airports I ever had the displeasure of being stuck in for an extended period of time. By 1.15pm I boarded a flight to Dusseldorf (the closest I could get to Maastricht on a direct flight). Croatia Airlines, I realised, would also be my last experience of random European airlines. It had certainly been interesting testing the gamut – from the absolute worst (Ryan Air, which took the crown thanks to our day-long delay in getting to Madrid) to the best (for me German Wings took the cake, although my one flight on British Airlines was pretty good… but that’s not really fair given its not exactly a budget airline! I also hear from friends though that Berlin Air is quite the treat … and my trip on Greece’s Olympic Air – the Qantas of the Mediterranean - was almost worth the exorbitant last minute price I paid for it). One thing I won’t/don’t miss is the ever-changing airport requirements: different lengths of time to arrive before a flight, varying strictness re checked and cabin baggage allowances, changing customs rules (or lack thereof), and the general fear that at some point I, as a foreigner, would be rejected for wrong passport/lack of visa/inappropriate baggage/all of the above.

So I arrive in Dusseldorf, ready to hop on a reliably efficient German train to speed me home – only problem is I have to wait an hour for it… this delays my trip back so I don’t arrive back to Maastricht until about 7pm which leaves me in a mad panic to get back to the guesthouse, do a last minute clean (in which I unwittingly dump two or three rather cherished items in the bin along with all the other last minute crap), shove some food into my face, lock up and haul ass to the main guesthouse to… *sniff*… hand in my key. The handover process took all of about 10 seconds… quite the anti-climax … but that was the easy part. In true Maastricht style, by this time its raining fairly steadily and I have to haul all my worldly possessions (the black luggage turtle is BACK!) downhill in the rain and wait for another bus. I honestly was carrying everything I owned on my back, my stomach, each arm and over my head (thanks to the rain). Quite the sight I imagine I was (and by this point definitely smelly and looking mildly deranged). You see, I was JUST going to miss the second-to-last train to Amsterdam that night, meaning I had just one last chance to get to the airport city that night to in fact make use of my pre-booked hotel respite. And the last train of the night is never direct, meaning I was staring down the barrel of another train change in Utrecth, hauling all my luggage across platforms once more. The thought of this – and later experience – prompted the observation that it is in fact quite hard to go to the toilet when travelling by oneself. Either you try to take all your gear into the toilet with you (not an option for this Turtle traveller) or you risk leaving it on the seat under the watch of a “trustful” fellow passenger… also not preferable. So, for once in my life… I held it!

This next bit I wrote on my laptop as the train (finally) pulled out of Maastricht for the last time. I wanted to capture my feelings in the moment, so I paste them here below as written at around 11pm on my last full day in the Netherlands:

“I write this as the train pulls out of Maastricht – its surreal, I can’t force my brain or my body to acknowledge that this is the last time I will do this. I’ve done this trip so many times before that I can’t make myself believe that this one is different, that I won’t be pulling back in on the train at some point in the not too distant future. As usual I have too many bags and too much stuff, and I’m flustered and running late. I completely underestimated the time it would take to get back from Croatia. I’m sweaty and stinky and unsettled. The constant paranoia is there – passport, phone, camera, wallet, laptop… all there so far. The worst paranoia is about my flight home. I have this awful nagging feeling that I’ve got the time or date wrong. Because it’s the only flight I’m taking by myself it’s got me nervous – no one to check it with. But I have to keep telling myself that I checked with the travel company and I wouldn’t think it was that time and date unless it was. Still I will NOT miss passport paranoia and having to constantly check everything.

I just can’t believe that was my last bus trip to the station, that all my worldly belongings are right here around me on the train, that there’s nothing left in my flat again, that I’m leaving… it really hasn’t hit me. Because there’s so much to do and organise and think about its kind of preventing me from getting emotional – too much else to stress about. Also it’s dark by now so I can’t see out the window so I don’t really have that looking out at the scenery and saying goodbye kind of feeling.

Instead I feel nervous and paranoid and worried and jittery… this is a big deal, I need to get it right. I’m still not properly packed, lots of stuff has to go once I get to the Amsterdam airport hotel. Things need to be rearranged. I’m terrified my luggage will be too heavy. I don’t want to chuck out anything important but I also don’t want to be embarrassed at the airport sifting through my undies in the check-in line. In the end though it’s all just stuff. As long as I have my passport and laptop that’s really all I need. My phone is a piece of crap anyway and I’ll be getting a new one as soon as I get home. And the flash on my camera has shat itself so time for a new one of those too – good timing hey?

I haven’t cried and I don’t think I will – until I get home at least. I reckon it will take some weeks before I completely realise what has happened and what has changed. I am already having moments of missing the girls here, and I talked about the Netherlands constantly in Croatia – a sign of what it will probably be like back home (sorry all!).

I had butterflies almost constantly for the last few days in Maastricht while I was packing etc. They went away most of the time in Croatia as I had other things to focus on, but they’re back with a vengeance this morning. I’ve been starting to think for a few days about being home, specific things, who I’m going to see, what I’m going to eat – doing a MASSIVE load of washing! It is very surreal – a whole year gone (it’s my 365th day today). I’m even spending my last night in Europe in the same hotel where I spent my first night in Europe. It’s going to be a very long day but when I go to sleep tonight in the Citizen M Schiphol hotel I will be just 12 hours away from heading home. If I think the butterflies are bad today I can only imagine the tummy turbulence in store tomorrow morning…”

After the worst train trip of my time abroad (think sitting slumped over my luggage at Utrecht for an hour waiting for the change over train, drunk people everywhere given the time of night, sleep deprivation and crashing adrenaline levels) I FINALLY arrived at the hotel about 1am! So much for my grand plan to rest up. I didn’t get to sleep for another couple of hours by the time I rearranged the luggage, showered, chucked out toiletries etc. And then of course came the paranoia that I wouldn’t wake up in time in the morning. I set two alarms but it still took an overdose of herbal sleeping tablets to send me off to the land of nod.

Day 366 (Sun) - BEEP. BEEP. BEEP. GAH! And just like that I was awake again. 8.30am… my last day in Europe. Flight home at midday. Shower again, final pack, check under the hotel bed (always!) and I’m out. Walking with a trolley full of (slightly less) luggage, everything in reverse to the first time I did this. Walking up to the check-in desk, having flash backs of farewelling Brett in this exact same spot months before. And now the moment of truth … just me and the luggage scale… e-YES! Just under, 19.8kg, possibly the extreme limit of what will actually fit in my back pack. Quite the wait at the check-in desk… eating in to my duty free shopping time! But there’ll be plenty of that in the 18-hour lay-over I have ahead in Kuala Lumpur airport. Finally, I’m standing in front of the hostie. Second moment of truth – am I here at the right time for the right flight? Yes… massive relief. Off goes my bag, into the luggage-belt abyss. Now just two hand luggage bags in my little trolley. No time to waste, hustling down to the gate (at Schiphol airport security checks are done at each gate). Rushing now, even though I’m on time, just need to be at the gate as soon as possible. Me and every other person due to get on board by the looks of it! For the first time, I’m made to go through one of those full body scanners,not nearly as embarrassing as I imagined it might be. Security check done, I join the queue of people holding boarding passes. Of course, my seat number is among the last cluster to be called. And when I finally collapse into my seat, I’m there no more than a couple of minutes, taking stock, when a couple rocks up … with a baby! Again! This happened on my leg TO Europe, but this time the flight is full and there’s nowhere to run. Thankfully, it was perhaps the best behaved baby I could have asked for, and the flight proceeded as normal – movies, plane food and not enough leg room.

About 13 hours later, ah KL we meet again. I didn’t sleep much on the plane so I’m exhausted, but I can’t check in to the airport hotel for about 5 hours. I have to change money for the first time in ages and have no idea about the exchange rate. At this point I don’t care though, so I change the wad of aussie 50s I’ve been carrying with me in case of emergency for a year and go straight to an American-style diner for pancackes! Here I can sit, use the internet, watch some TV and waste a few hours. Other time wasting initiatives included buying a new wallet, smelling perfumes, getting a massage and finally checking in to the hotel, where I could make use of the sauna. The idea was to sleep there but again I was too paranoid I wouldn’t wake up for my next flight so I just napped. At least I could shower though – I’m sure the teenage guy I shared plane seats with on the last flight appreciated that.

Eventually the time rolls round to check in for my last flight on this epic journey across continents. I have no idea what time it is at home (barely know what time it is in KL but I know I’m in the right spot for my flight). Having spent the whole year juggling time zones for travel and skype dates I now feel like I’m in the Bermuda triangle of clocks… not to worry, I’ll be setting my watch to Adelaide time soon enough. On the plane, I settle in to watch a movie but find myself nodding off. I take the opportunity to get a couple of hours sleep, but am woken for breakfast, and after that its all over … I’m so close to home I can’t possibly sleep now. The butterflies are back. We begin descending and all of a sudden I can see recognisable landmarks. After so many trips descending over unknown cities, I can now pick out the Torrens River, the CBD, Henley Beach Rd … and then … we’re over the airport … touchdown… eek! Its dark, and cold – winter mornings in Adelaide. Luckily I have my trusty London feather-stuffed coat with me! I’m not in such a rush to get off the plane, but once I’m in the airport it hits me that I’m home and I just want to get out of there. My luggage comes uncharacteristically quickly and then I’m guided to customs. This is where it got interesting :P I put on my card that I’d been in the Netherlands and declared my sneakers cause I’m pretty sure they had cow poop on them still. The customs guy who greets me takes one look at my card and goes “so you’ve been in the Netherlands for a year hey? … ma’am, we’re going to have to search your luggage!” I’m calm, cool, not thinking too much of it, have nothing to hide, the search goes fine. Then, he asks me “do you have any food to declare”, to which I absentmindedly, and rather suspiciously in insight, reply “oh, no, no, I left all my munchies on the plane”!

Safely through the first real customs check I’ve had since I left home (thank you Schengen agreement) and then I’m pushing my trolley, loaded up again, through the gates and there they are! First I see my little god-daughter and her face lights up as much as mine, then here Mum and my best friend, then Bretty, heads above everyone else(!) and Mum J J (Dad had to work so his absence was forgiven). Hugs all round, can’t believe that after so long I can actually touch these people again. Then before I know it I’m whisked out to the car park and being driven home – along roads I know so well but haven’t seen in so long. This truly is the definition of surreal… staring around, open-mouthed, wide-eyed, exhausted, exhilarated. Heading home.

Saturday, September 24, 2011

Day 355 - The Ultimate Maastricht Day


  
While Maastricht was home for the year, we often took it for granted because it was always there. The weekend trips were 'destinations', worth touristy trips and photos, Maastricht was a 'base'. But in our last week there Nakita and I finally made good on a promise to make the most of Maas for a day. We spent a whole day, more than 14 hours, exploring our home city like the good little tourists we were. Nothing was too cheesey and, of course, there was a to do list involved. Throughout the year we'd noted things we 'always meant' to do in Maastricht but never had the time. On the other hand, there were also favourite things we wanted to experience one last time. So for any of you who may consider a trip to this little city 'o ours, here's a rought itinerary to get you started...

9am to 9.30am- HEMA (a cross between Target's wares and IKEA's cafeteria) for 1 euro breakfast - can't start such an epic day on an empty stomach!


10am to 11am - off to UCM for one last look around, to hand in our LAST ever UCM assignments ... and to finally have a crack at immitating that darned statue!

    

11am to noon - wandering the back blocks of UCM, one last look at the animal farm ove the river and some more interactions with statues including the infamous Bear

  

 

noon to 2pm: FINALLY we climbed the Red Church (Rood Kerk) in the Vrijtof

   

2pm to about 4pm: wander around trying to find somewhere for lunch (including through the main shopping drag and stomping in the water fountain), start with a drink in the Onze Liewe Vrouwe Plein, in the rain no less, (a favourite spot of Andre Rieu's) before settling for lunch in the first street off the Vrijtof (Schnitzel and Maastricht-style rabbit, both met frites met mayo - very regional cuisine)

 

 

5pm: finally took the Maas river boat trip we'd wanted to since our first week in town

 

6pm to 6.45pm: muck about taking more touristy photos, including with more statues

 

 

About 7pm: Bus home to get ready for dinner at David's, a restaurant we girls frequented, with the BEST Apple Pie cocktails :) :) Home before midnight to end the best day ever :P

Days 358 to 364 - "When I was in Croatia..."

As most of you know, I've actually been home for quite some time now but in the world of the blogosphere my tale has been in limbo somehwere between a tiny Greek island and a long flight home. The title of this post, about my last trip in Europe before heading home, is a nod to the problems one faces when one returns from a trip that no one else went on and everything back home prompts a memory from abroad. This results in the unfortunate "when I was in (insert envious location here)" disorder... for the first few weeks I was back my darling mother would pick up on every time I said something like this in conversation. So this one's for you Mum!
Day 358 (Sat) - "When I was in Croatia... it was hot! After many many months of mediocre weather I was to have my final blast of Euro-Summer spending 8 nights 'on a boat' sailing down the Dalmatian coast off Croatia. Our Top Deck boat tour took us from Split south to Dubrovnik, stopping in a new island destination each night along the way. I'd booked the trip months earlier after planning it with Matty, a mate whom I met 'on another boat' 2 years before and who is now living in London (and still living the dream, so he reminds me at regular intervals!). So the pair of us arrived in Split harbour after a VERY eary morning flight from London, sweating like pigs wearing clothes meant for London morning air, and checked in with the boat operator. "Novak!" the young Croatian woman barks at me, "that is Croatian name yes?". "Um..." I shrug at her. During my year in Europe my heritage was claimed by many an Eastern European... so what was one more.
The view from our boat as it left Split harbour

Indeed, the Croatian people were a source of much confusion for me. Their attitudes took a bit of getting used to - certainly not rude... but quite blunt... even more so than the Dutch, and that's saying something. Their sense of humour is so dry it dehydrates its victims (and that's without all the alcohol they regularly force upon you). And misunderstand them ... and the defenses go right up. The men are of few words, but not so much the women. It can be mildly confronting if you're not expecting it. Having said that, we were foreigners... given time to get to know some of the locals we met, particularly the blokes on the boat, they can warm up considerably :)
Generally Croatia is certainly no nanny state. Rules are... bendy, to say the least. You can drink everywhere and in fact many of the most popular bars are situated inches from the water... or far far above the water as with the cliff bar we visited in Dubrovnik where one can saunter to the edge of the rocks with a beverage in hand, pop it down, bomb dive into the water (at any level of inebriation) and surface to retrieve said beverage! Australia is far too sensible for such nonsense and as a result... there's far more fun to be had in Croatia.

Dubrovnik cliff bar
The scenery is spectacular. Everywhere there are giant mountains or cliffs. We noticed them from the first day when we got on the bus from Split airport, huge imposing things, all grey and speckeled with dry bushes. They're particularly amazing in Dubrovnik where the city was bombarded from on top of the hills and just looking up and imagining being under seige from their imposing height is quite a threatening experience. The islands and harbours we visited were all very pictureqsue - at least on par with Greece and in some cases even prettier. There is a distinctly Italian feel in Croatia which is different from the Mediterranean looks of Greece. The Croatian look seems to be stone buildings, red tile rooves, vines climbing up walls and winding alleyways. The Italian influence is also found in the food - risottos, pannacotta, gnocci and slow cooked meats, and the most amazing steak I had all year. Good wine too!.


THE steak


Typical alleyway/walls

More typical architecture
Our boat however had a distinctly Down Under feel. EVERY single person on board was an Aussie ... except for our guide, who was a Scot. Everyone got along and everyone was nice and there was a girl on board who'd just done an exchange in Sweden and another about to go on one in London, so there was plenty to talk about. There were 2 couples, 2 sets of cousins and a set and a half of twins! (one of the blokes in a couple had an identical twin brother at home).
Our first day took in lunch and a swim before porting in Starigrad where we watched the sunset and ate pasta on the boat before wandering through the alleys of the town for a spot of wine tasting, some impromptu street music and a visit to the coolest gllery exhibition I saw all year - http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/fantazam-gallery-hvar/ . All the while, with those big hills staring down at us.


Starigrad harbour

...And in the evening

Day 359 (Sun) - Our accommodation on the boat was ... modest to say the least. Basically, mine and Matty's room consisted of a set of bunk beds JUST long enough for me to almost stretch out fully (Matty had enough room of course!), a cupboard in the corner and a sink behind the door, which you couldn't really open all the way before it hit the bed. Showers were at deck level, along with indoor and outdoor eating areas and then an upper deck for sunning etc.
On this second day we made our way to the port of Hvar (on the island of Hvar, the same island which is home to Starigrad, our first stop), stopping for the obligatory swim stop along the way. Once in Hvar we climbed a massive hill to a fort with a spectacular view. That night our guide Fi took us on a bit of a cocktail crawl, to the Hula Hula bar on the beach front, and another apparently famous for her mojitos. Tonight was the night of the most amazine steak of my life. Good fuel for our next adventure - hopping in a tiny boat crammed with drunk people to venture off to an island off the port, looming in the darkness (doesn't really sound like a good idea I know, but it was toatlly worth it). The Island bar was literally the only thing on the island, with disco balls hanging from the trees and couches set up in the sand. We boogeyed until it was time to catch the pumpkin coach/dinghy back to port and squeeze in to our school camp size beds.


disco balls in the trees at the Hvar club

View from the Fort

Day 360 (Mon) – Off to Vis. After a big night, this was a very chilled day. Before porting to explore the area surrounding the port in STINKING heat we made a stop at the blue caves. These were stunning, the clearest brightest blue water I've seen - an effect created as light from outside the caves comes in but from underwater, shining in below the water line where the cave walls stop (they didn't go all the way to the sea floor). It was quite an effort getting in there though. The opening was really quite tiny and the tide coming in and out reduced the gap, then opened it, then reduced it again very unpredictably! That night our group dined picnic style on a pebble beach (not quite as comfortable as sand but at least nothing gets in your food). We'd bought Dalmatian procuito and home made cheeses from this adorable market guy who spoke less than no Enlglish and I tried a Croatian beer with half the letters of my last name in it!


Inside the blue caves


entrance to the caves - eek!

The aforementioned beer and pebble beach

Day 361 (Tues) – Next stop Vela Luka where again we schlepped up a giant hill for an amazing view and this time a visit to a cave. While the cave was all prehistoric and mossy what was even more fascinating was the guy who runs the joint. Fi had warned us he's fond of the ladies but it seems he only likes blondes. And boy does he like them! One of the girls in our group caught his attention and it was all Fi could do to stop thi bloke from following us back to our boat. Apparently he asked for her number because he was 'going to be in Australia soon...' That night was pizza night on the boat with a pirate theme. I learnt some cool new drinking games and must give Matty props for his costume ingenuity...

View from the cave



Matty's pirate 'costume'

Day 362 (Wed) – Next on the tour agenda; Korcula. A funny, and ironic, thing happened this morning... after the pirate party the night before, the engine on our boat failed... and we had to be towed part of the way by a nearby ship ... that looked a lot like a pirate ship! Once we ported in Korcula it was off to explore the town, looking in some beautiful but too expensive jewellery stores, I bought a couple of paintings and discovered the Croatian version of a Calippo. We swam at a teeny pebble beach where one of the women on our tour stepped on a sea urchin (but she handled it admirably). Later we visited the only sand beach of the trip - very dark brown sand, very rich and smooth. But I did notice afterwards how annoying the sand stuck to me was... maybe there's something to these pebble beaches after all...? That evening we made our way to a cocktail tower ... literrally a turrety kind of tower where you drink cocktails. On the way though... I bumped in to my cousin, Kelly. One minute I'm walking along, the next thing I see a recognisable face sitting at a table on the side of the road. Turns out she was going to the cocktail tower as well... so we did as Shores do and shared a drink! Dinner that night, unfortunately, was terrible. The staff completely stuffed up our orders to a laughable degree and the food was mediocre at best. The upside they gave us a part refund which Fi used to shout us all drinks at the next bar. Unfortunately, the night didn't get much better for me there - one of the many Aussie beefcake blokes holidaying in a pepetual muscle singlet picked a fight with a girl I was talking to, calling her a bitch, and I ended up bailing like Cinderella around midnight. The highlight of the night before I left though..? Watching the boys on our tour group (far more gentlemanly despite what's coming...) pole dancing in their undies. Yes, there were pictures. No, I don't have any.


Our pirate tow boat

Kelly and I


The cocktail tower

Day 363 (Thurs) – Today's island Mljet is home to a great little national park. Although it was a really hot day, the island is very lush and there are 2 inland salt lakes that made for great swimming. We also popped on a boat and went over to a little church on an island in the lake that's on the island(!) and later hired bikes and cycled around the lake that housed the island... just for a different view. It was nice to be riding a bike again but it was no Jaffa.. all the bits were in the wrong positions and I kind of felt like I was cheating. The best part about Mljet was the kind of jet stream swimming tunnel between the two lakes. The water pressure between them made a kind of rip which went in one direction under a bridge, like a horizontal water slide. It was great fun! On the boat that night we all got a tad fancy for the captain's dinner, 3 course meal and plenty of drinks :)

The "rip"


Cycling, with the island Church in the background

Day 364 (Fri) – The last dy of the trip. We pulled in to Dubrovnik and the difference was instantly noticeable. From the first sleepy port of Starigrad to the cruise ship mecca of Dubrovnik. There were hundreds of boats moored and these cruise liners were bigger than anything I've ever seen close up. The port was also on the main road and the traffic of trucks and buses passing was a bit of a shock after our serene days on the ocean. The port was some way from the centre of town so we had to catch local buses in and out but they were easy enough. Fi gave us a bit of a guided tour which took in (among other things) the infamous city walls of Dubrovnik. They are about as imposing as the ever present hills but it was just too hot to contemplate walking along them with the sun beating down (especially considering the tourist operations up there meant you could only walk in one direction and you could only get off at two points around the circuit of the walls...). Instead we kept wandering until we ended up at the cliffs bar I mentioned earlier. The view was truly spectacular and the cider was cold ... what more could you ask for.


The cliff bar in Dubrovnik


Dubrovnik city walls


Dubrovnik stair/alley ways

That night we had dinner in an open cobbled square where I had the second best steak of the year washed down with some great red wine, Plavac, that was served chilled (which was acceptable in the heat). Later we visited a tiny bar down a very skinny alleyway which ascened in sets of stairs up the base of one of the ever present hills. Apparently the next stop for the night was a bar inside the city walls... but I must admit I nerded out and went home around 1am because I had to be up at 6am that morning to start my horrendously long and arduous journey home.... as a teaser, I'll let you know it consisted of a loooong wait in Dubrovnik airport, a two hour flight to Dusseldorf, a 3 hour train to Maastricht, a 2.5 hour train to Amsterdam and about 20 hours of flying home, split by an 18 hour layover in Kuala Lumpur. But for the details of that little treat, you'll have to tune in next time....


Wednesday, August 17, 2011

You all know how fond I am of a list...

...so here's a few I've been keeping.

Things I missed about home (other than family and friends of course):
  • Fruchocs
  • Tim tams
  • Allen’s lollies (they're a better kind of chewy than the Haribo gummy bear type lollies that abound in Europe)
  • The buzz of a newsroom, after work drinks, work freebies and events
  • Heading out before midnight!
  • Wine tours and nice wine (I think I’d forgotten the difference and for a while there was subsisting on 3 euro bottles and exclaiming that everything was just “very drinkable”)
  • A nice shower in a clean bathroom
  • A proper mattress and pillow... on a a bed bigger than a kiddy bunk
  • Windows with bug screens
  • Fan heaters
  • A couch!! In a living room
  • Watching AFL
  • My car (but only every now and again - like when it was freezing or raining, although having said that you didn't need to scrape frost off a bike's windscreen and it always started in the morning!)
  • Sea  water and the sound of the beach (even in winter)
  • Living 5 minutes from my boyfriend
  • Cheaper public transport
  • Eavesdropping! (although my Dutch reached a level just before I left where I could listen in on the odd conversation going on around me)
  • Confidence in brand names and being able to ask for advice when shopping
  • Philli cheese in blocks (they only sell it in tubs in Maastricht)
  • Copperpot Houmus (I finally found a brand of houmus mildly as good in Jumbo and like 3 weeks later they discontinued it!!!)
  • Haighs (clearly - within days of getting back to Adelaide I went in and bought a bag full of all my favourite flavoured chocolates)
  • Waking up and its 30C (instead of minus something degrees)
  • Swish dancing (although there was an abundance of 90s music played at random Dutch pubs its just wasn't the same)
  • Beer weather
  • Getting dressed up (nobody does that in Maastricth, the hoodie is the official uniform of most evenings)

Things I miss about Maas:
  • Stroppwaffels and stroopwafel mcflurries (although I've found a place in the central markets that sells "syrup wafels" imported from the Netherlands and I'm going to recreate a strropwafel McFluffy by ordering a caramel sundae and adding the crushed biscuits)
  • Gouda cheese from the supermarket (it was the cheapest brand, like Balck&Gold here and it was the smoothest, tastiest, meltiest cheese ever)
  • The crazy gusthouse cleaning lady yelling “CLEANING!” as she comes in at 8am on a Thursday morning
  • Dutch ads (they’re hilarious even if you can't understand them, in fact... they're probably hilarious because you can't understand them)
  • Dutch subtitles (good for practice)
  • My roomies
  • Sitting on the Vrijtof drinking beers in the sun, eating bitterballen ... or sitting on Emma's balcony drinking Pimms eating chips!
  • Biking (most of the time - I really need to get my bike sorted here but its a kind of mountain bike thing and I miss the nice bikes with pretty handle bars!)
  • Being able to just wander down the corridor and be at a friend’s place
  • Living in a TRULY 20 minute city, which Adelaide no longer is
  • Having a common room at uni where people play musical intstruments and stage plays with bananas as guns... just because
  • Studying crazy stuff like Theorising Terrorism and analysing Aqua songs for assignments
  • Being surrounded by well-informed people who debate politics over pizza
  • My new friends :'(
  • Being able to pop over to another country for the weekend!
  • Authentic pubs that are small, with dark wood and cool bartenders (not the huge modern things we have here which can get a bit sterile)
  • Communist dinners (the sharing of ingredients among guesthousers)
  • Cycling as a posse on a night out
  • The choice of beer (Belgian, Dutch, German ... fruit, white, dark...)

Things I don’t miss about Maas:
  • Cobble stones and resultant bingo wings (this one's for you Katie!)
  • Cycling up the steep cobble street out of the city (I will never forget the dread of that street as long as I live)
  • Getting letters in languages I can’t understand!
  • The banking systemSchizophrenic weather (13C one day, 30C the next, raining the day after)
  • Being able to hear a pin drop from everywhere in our tiny flat
  • The teeny tiny bathroom and crappy shower, and generally no fans in European bathrooms
  • Worrying one of the little neighbourhood punks is going to puke in the guesthouse entrance again
  • Getting soaked on the bike
  • The dread of being ONE minute late for a class at UCM
  • Lack of wine choices in Jumbo
  • Working out time differences
  • Television shows being interrupted for adbreaks at the stupidest times (like mid sentence) or the intervals at the cinema!
Things I didn’t expect back home
  • Stripper heels and fur-trimmed vests are fashionable now
  • Lunch for 2 cost $62!!
  • Stamps are now 60c
  • Bus route names have changed but the routes are still the same!
  • How much I would mind not having a car
  • How much I would be bothered by not having a job for a while
  • How unenthused I would be by uni back home
  • How much I would appreciate having a dishwasher again
  • The sunny winter weather (I think I luckily missed the worst of the winter here)
  • To feel as though I've been back for SO long when I've only been back a month at this stage
  • The odd feeling like the whole exchange almost didn't happen - its really hard to get my head around the fact that I was there and now I'm here but other people are still there... or elsewhere ... if that makes any sense!


Saturday, August 13, 2011

Days 341 to 345 – Making our way to Greece while the sun shines

Day 341 – (Wed) This trip was totally spontaneous and only happened in large part thanks to Nakita’s strong desire to go somewhere warm before she went home (and my strong desire to go back to Greece).  After a couple of days of procrastination (read: searching for cheap flights to cool places) Nakita found us cheap return flights to the Greek island of Kos – somewhere I’d not really heard of, and not one of “the” Greek islands on the must do list but it looked lovely on the tourist websites and would be a bit cheaper thanks to its lower profile. Only problem – we had to fly in and out of Brussels!!! As loyal readers may remember Brussels is the hated travel destination of most exchange students, and we were headed to the terrible and ‘remote’ Brussels Charleroi airport. Nonetheless, we (being me, Nakita from Sydney and Ally from Canada, whom you may remember from the Faro, Portugal post :P) were stoked to be heading for 4 nights of sun, sand and Greek food!!


First glimpse of Greek islands!

We got in late at night so there was really only time for dinner. We stayed at the Koala Hotel (which I almost didn’t want to stay in because of the name) but it was a great deal for a triple share room (a bit hard to find – and Greece doesn’t really seem to ‘do’ hostels, kind of like Bali because the hotels are so cheap to begin with) but the hotel ended up being great. It was run by a couple of Aussie-born Greek blokes who were really helpful, friendly and down to Earth. They recommended a place for dinner down the road so off we went. About half an hour later (after walking down a mildly dodgy feeling street with no street lights – a sign of austerity?) we were seated at a table covered in different meals to share, cold beer/wine and good company J
first dinner
From the moment we landed it was just so nice to be in Greece. It was definitely in the top 3 of my favourite countries (which rotated frequently between Greece, Croatia and Germany). The air was warm, no cardigan necessary, able to wear a dress without leggings, a nice breeze, not too humid… perfect beer and swimming weather. And speaking of swimming, if we leaned out over the balcony of our (air-conditioned … haven’t used that stuff in a while) hotel room (probably a bit further than was safe) we could see the beach J The landscape was quite arid and really reminded me of Australia, gum trees included! We got a good look at it on a bus ride from the airport in the centre of the island of Kos to Kos town on the north-east end.

One of the strangest things about this place though is that it was almost mini-Maastricht… but with better weather. The first sign that we were actually heading to a Dutch island was the abundance of Dutch people on the plane and airport bus. Other signs included restaurant menus in Greek and Dutch (not English), signs to hire things in Dutch, Greek waiters greeting restaurant guests in fluent Dutch and… the biggest giveaway… the bicycles on every corner (including signs in Dutch to hire them!). We were told by locals that because the island is mostly flat and has always had a pretty good cycle network with good bike paths etc its become quite the popular destination with the Dutchies. Still it was enough of a change of scenery for us!
our bikes and the scenery
Day 342 – (Thurs) Our first day was spent taking it pretty easy, starting with an orientation walk of the area, from our hotel down to the beach, along the water and around to a marina. Dotted around Kos town are random areas of cordoned off old ruins and of course the cycle paths. It was quite hot already though so we made a bee-line back to the hotel to hire bikes nearby which made getting around a whole lot easier – and more fun. There was a great breeze as we whizzed back to the marina for a bit more of a wander and a look around some of the squares, stalls etc. The rest of the day was spent lunching and lounging on the beach swimming and (unfortunately for me) getting a ridiculous tan line that lasted the rest of the trip! We found a restaurant/bar on the beach with free lounge chairs and indulged in cocktails (Nakita, do you like piiiiina colaaaaadas?!), Greek nibblies and dipping into the water right in front of us. By June the water had time to warm up a little but it was still quite fresh. Eventually we cycled back to the hotel and, after a quick stop off at the shop for more bottled water (lucky it was cheap but I wouldn’t suggest drinking the water on most greek islands, very salty… as is the sea water around the place – think crispy skin after coming out of the water!) we headed out for dinner again. The plan was to avoid the really touristy places, anywhere with pictures of food or a hawker out the front (or definitely both) was out of the question. Eventually we found an unassuming place one building back from the main road along the beach with a nice waiter who didn’t hassle us – perfect. The food was really good, nice and authentic, well cooked and fresh. I had moussaka and the mascot of our trip – the obligatory Greek salad.

our view for lunch
a dip after lunch
Day 343 - (Fri). This whole day was spent on the water. We’d booked a trip the day before on a sailing boat to head out to three nearby islands. A 9am start and it was already hot under the sun (unfortunately this meant a bit more unwitting sunburn – it seems my Australian sun radar was a bit out of whack… I figured they have Ozone up there, she’ll be right… not so much … but lesson learnt for the next trip to, Croatia, I assure you). After about an hour and a half of relaxing cruising out into open waters we came to the first stop, Platti. Bascially it was a little cove with a flat white sand beach and some really cute classic blue and white buildings a bit back from the beach. We didn’t have long, about a half hour by the time we got down from the boat but it was enough for a quick dip. Back on the boat it was time for lunch – everything you’d expect; lamb skewers, rice, salad, tzatziki, bread etc etc. Was delicious and clearly home made (well, boat made… but with lurv :P). The crew on the boat were great; our captain Georgie, we called him, his wife and daughter in the kitchen by the looks of it, and … the entertainment… Kosta, the boat clown effectively. This guy was trouble – typical cheeky Greek sense of humour and only took it too far on a few occasions :P

relaxing on the boat


our 'mate' Goergie!

After lunch we puttered off to Kalymnos where it was SO stinking hot that all we could do was find the nearest geltai shop to the boat and sit in the shade and watch the harbour. It was bloody good gelati tho (I spotted an old guy nearby who had a fresh looking fruit salad and gelati so I copy-catted that). After about an hour it was back on the boat (where we were treated to some home-made delicious Greek donut thingies OMG SO good!) and then full-speed ahead for the last stop – Pserimos. This was a tiny little alcove where we could jump off the boat into the water (which I convinced Nakita to do and then we both paid for it for a while after with water up our nose!) and then just walk up around the bay or explore a little church above the rocks. Somehwere along the way we also saw some dolphins and Gorgie slowed down for us to have a look. The best part of the whole day though was simply the warm wind in our hair and that reassuring motion of the boat over teeny waves. Eventually it was time to head back to Kos Town. Dinner that night (we’d worked up an appetite swimming and lazing around all day remember!) was on the edge of a lovely little plaza in the middle of the old town. Really we just ordered a collection of starters; dolmades, lentil patties, the obligatory Greek salad etc. I was surprised to find I like dolmades these days (maturing taste buds and all that). We sat in the warm evening air with a light breeze and watched little kids run around the square. The only downer of the night was the waitress telling us we were ordering too much! Ha! We told her we were on holidays and we’d eat what we wanted!!
Nakita and I celebrating surviving jumping off the boat
'hanging out' at the front of the boat
Platti
Kalymnos
Pserimos
Day 344 – (Sat) Our last full day in Kos and we decided to hit up the hot springs for which the island is apparently famed. They did not disappoint. Usually I imagine hot springs these days to be concrete pools dug out of the ground with hot water being pumped in, completely commercial and charmless. What we were greeted with when we arrived at the beach (after a great bus ride up a slowly ascending hill, affording amazing views of the cobalt blue sea and swish resorts on the hillside) was literally some sand dug out of the ground, a few big rocks placed on the sea-side of the dug-out to stop the ocean waves coming in and a trickle of really, really hot water coming in from the cliff side up the beach. There was a smell of sulphur immediately and we could see little bubbles rising in the water. Foolishly, our first entrĂ©e into the hot spring was in the hottest side, where the fresh hot water comes in, so it was really bloody hot. It took quite a while to adjust and was honestly pretty uncomfortable at first, but after we adjusted I could see how it felt nice. Later we discovered if you sit on the ocean side, a little of the cooler ocean water seeps in and makes the temperature more bearable. The rest of the afternoon was spent lying on a sun lounger under a palm frond umbrella, reading a magazine, a quick dip and then back to the bus stop. It was a steep walk back up to the main road from the beach below, and at the top we were greeted by a real mountain goat… who decided he wanted to eat my shorts!! Thankfully an ice cream vendor was on hand to deftly shoo him away :S

Hot springs


Cliffs on way to hot springs


Goat trying to eat my shorts!! (and a great shot of dodgy arm tan line!!)

Our original plan for the day had been to cycle to the beach, but we soon changed our mind when we found out how steep it was to get up there. By the time we got back on the bus to Kos Town it felt like 100C (I think my aussie internal thermometer had been turned down during a Dutch winter and I was feeling it a bit more than usual). Sitting on the bus also gave us the chance to take in the views.
The evening consisted of a swim in the hotel pool and cocktail hour with one of the hotel guys, Angelo, who made us cocktails! He also recommended a place for dinner, a little way down the road along the beach in the opposite direction to the Marina where he said locals eat. We cycled there and pulled up to a place that was LITERALLY on the water – as in there was our table, a little wooden fence and then the beach. We could see Turkey out in the distance (Kos is only 20 minutes from Bodrum on the Turkish east coast) and there was, again, a lovely breeze. Don’t know about the locals eating there though – we ended up at a table next to some Dutch people we met coming off the plane! Again there was plenty of food for dinner; the highlight of my meal – a piece of chargrilled octopus that looked like a hand!
Angelo's crazy cocktails
My octopus 'hand'
Day 345 – (Sun) Time to go home. I started our last day with a little solo cycle in the opposite direction for a bit of an explore. Later we lunched at the Museum Restaurant, recommended to us by a fellow exchanger where again we ordered A LOT and again the waiter told us it was too much. But we showed him! Lunch was followed by a stroll in the Marina to buy a few paintings as souveniers and then a sweaty walk to the airport bus stop with our luggage. Once on the plane it was announced  that we would be stuck on the tarmac for 20 minutes. But it was OK, we passed the time staring at a gorgeous baby and his equally gorgeous Greek dad (flying solo) in the row in front!

Arriving back in Brussels “le shit-hole” Charleroi Airport (as we have now dubbed) it, we entered into the nerve-wracking process of procuring a hotel in jumbled English-French to take us to the expectedly dodgy hotel we’d booked for the night seeing our flight arrived at 10.45pm and there were no trains running back to Maas til the next day. We had low expectations of the place given its reviews but I was actually pleasantly surprised. Don’t get me wrong, it was VERY basic and a bit grimy, with that faint smell of cigarette smoke that never really goes away. But it was generally clean, the guy at the front desk was surprisingly helpful and it had wifi and even breakfast included (those chocolate croissants I have now decided I love!).
Day 346 – (Mon) Up early and back to Maas by train. While other parts of beligum are really picturesque (think Bruges of Antwerp) but Brussels and especially  its outerlying areas really aren’t. Most of the time you just feel unsafe and dirty! Although I am going to miss good train travel….